Kinosaki Onsen, 2.5 hours by train from Kyoto, is one of the most famous onsen towns in Japan. It is the only onsen town we’ve been in so far where it’s definitely acceptable and common to walk around town in a Yukata, and the hotels and Ryokans provide ones that are warm enough to do this in winter, while “onsen hopping” between the various public hot springs spread around town – all included in a free pass ticket.
Having said this, Nishimuraya itself has arguably the best onsen in town available to its guests, making the foremost leisure activity in Kinosaki less urgent. Why leave the Ryokan? well, Kinosaki does have at least 3 gorgeous onsens with an outdoor Ofuro (bath) set in rock – one of them in a cave-like rocky recess – which are particularly appealing when snowing outside. We were lucky enough to experience this during the first snow of the year – Hatsu Yuki – which started while viewing the lovely gardens of Nishimuraya.
With 2 centuries of history, and a newer wing built in the Sukiya tea house style in the 1960’s by the master architect Masaya Hirata, Nishimuraya is a phenomenal labyrinth of rooms, all unique and inspiringly beautiful. All guest rooms are traditional style with tatami mat rooms, and some feature hinoki wood baths, open-air baths and garden views.
A remnant of a short lived pre-war history, when the Ryokan operated a small airline ferrying passengers from the Kansai region to the Ryokan, is proudly displayed in the dining room – a magnificent iron rimmed wooden propeller, belonging to the airline’s single sea plane – just one of many fascinating details at Nishimuraya Honkan.
The kitchen serves a deep exploration of the Tajima cuisine, including exquisite crab meals in the winter season.
Please note that children under 10 years old not allowed at Nishimuraya Honkan.
